My Time as a Human

writings by Kai Mantsch

Browsing Posts in China

Amsterdam, as with much of northern europe, had a special familiarity for me. The streets and buildings, playing hide and seek in the fog, were built of old stone and brick. Climbing into an old pub or restaurant was like entering a hundreds of years old womb, thick ancient wooden surroundings from trees of even older forests. Handles and hinges of brass. Mugs of clay. My parents spent their early marriage in Europe, and gave birth to me there, and it profoundly affected them. So this, too, is the feel of the childhood home we built together in North America, raking out the foundation in the cold winter, laying the tile floor, installing electricity and plumbing. I’ve returned here to rest and recover from the poison, to return from whence I come, to, as Gabriela Jovanny put it, “be a baby again”.

amsterdam canal
amsterdam

organ pipes
organ console
dad and food
dad

My head and blood are still in the process of clearing. This place is both comfortable and familiar and subtly strange during the times when my perceptions are slightly off. I’m hoping once the jet lag clears this too will fade. I’ve started small bits of ashtanga yoga to keep the blood flowing and I’m slowly building up work on the elliptical to get my knees back to kung fu.

There are a lot of reminders here, along with the heavy tile and brick and wood, of what has shaped me. There is a pipe organ built into the house, the console completely refinished in oak to match the rest of the house. What seems crazy is so comfortably familiar to us. We carried the pipes out to a rental truck as children. My mother plays it and my father keeps it working. There is now a second pipe organ in the process of being rebuilt and I sleep near its frame in the basement. It, too, is of old wood, extracted from a church. For a hundred years the huge pipes’ deep tones shook the chests of singing faithful. Now the two of us are quiet, resting together, waiting patiently for recovery.

There is a sports car in the garage, but every other thing in the house was bought at a garage sale for less than five dollars or built by my parents by hand. There are stereo systems, some with 8-track cassette players, that cost less than two dollars but are now nestled into custom oak housings and mounted against oak cabinets. There is a 486 computer still being used in the front room to teach my mother’s piano students. It’s attached to a casio keyboard from somewhere in the 1980s. There are curious brass bells tucked around the house and visitors are welcomed by a huge gong, sent by my uncle from Thailand and mounted on a custom wood stand my father built.

Everywhere are reminders of frugality, of hand made things, of old europe. It is a place that speaks of a joy of creation, of novelty, and yet of connection with the past. Before my mother left her library career and started selling them online we had books and oak bookshelves throughout the house. Now there are literally thousands of books filling every space in which we once played. Tucked in the back I can still see the originals, classic books like, “Freedom of the Hills” that taught us rope belays and camping tricks.

Before I return to the earth, before I am clay and brick and old stories, I have another moment to pause. I didn’t plan for it, but no one ever does. It feels like the slow birth of the next round of adventure, a reassuring touch of the sandy bottom of the sea to be sure of its solidity before being carried away by the waves once more. To deepen the appreciation of the ocean’s movements, I’ve been given another glimpse of how lucky I am.


From Death to Fuzhou

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Being back in Fuzhou, this grungy, comfortable, familiar little town I’ve grown attached to, is very strange. I feel like I have just barely returned from near death, watching my brain slip quickly away from me, and I have a lot to think about from that glimpse of the end of my life. At the same time, some people here didn’t even know why I was gone and, given the so completely familiar surroundings of the dorm hallways and my old room, there is the strange sense when I see those people that… maybe nothing happened. How could it have been that bad? Here I am, talking and walking normally. They seem so unconcerned, how can I be? Yet there are others who run to hug me, thankful to see me again, and this feels more in tune with what happened. I think I want that support, that reminder that I really did go through something as intense as it feels to me, that I wasn’t just skipping school.

Banyan treeIronically, I have a different way to experience this place now. My knee is improving and I can walk freely and climb stairs. I can see a place and walk to it fearlessly. The constant stress of school is also suddenly gone. I can enjoy a moment for what it is, without the terror that I’m hurtling ever further behind in every moment that I’m not staring at a book. Together, these two things open this place in a whole new way that wasn’t available before. All of this helped make last night such a surprising delight.

I wanted to see the park. I wanted to be around all of those Fuzhou people enjoying the evening. In the bustle of travel I had somehow lost the tiny sim card for my phone and suddenly had no way to contact anyone. Apparently they had been calling me and gave up and went out to eat without me, leaving me alone to wander. I found one friend, Angela 张萌, who was free and insisted that she go with me to 五一广山 (wu yi square), the park at the heart of Fuzhou. As we waited for the bus she told me about 11/11/11, that day, a day with so many single 1s that the Chinese people call it, “singles day”. Single people are supposed to pair up and have a date that night. I immediately picked up her arm, dropped it into mine, and declared it a date.

I tried to make it as Chinese as possible. First we went to the massive, Burning Man scale statue of Mao Zedong and saluted. The banyan tree is the official tree of Fuzhou, so we found a wise old banyan dripping with beards and asked it, in Chinese, to make tonight perfect. He said sure, and to drink plenty of water. Thus blessed, we walked around the park and the city (after buying some water) just talking and playing and seeking out little places to buy sweets. We danced under the trees and over the steps. We watched drunk groups of Chinese people singing lonely songs to one another in the street. We ended in perfect style in a tower on top of a roof, at 5:00 am, looking out over the city and sipping walnut milk.

The whole night… the simple walking and talking in the light rain, the spontaneous smiles, the people we bumped into… all of it something that only a few days ago I thought would never be possible again. It made everything tingle with an electricity that sang, “just one more.” Just one more magic moment before I go. Just one more silly joke before I go. Just one more dance before I go. Just one more look at a fountain before I go. Just one more smile from a pretty girl before I go. Everything I see, taste, hear or feel now is a bonus, an extra, a treasure. Life has always been this way, so full of treasure. Life will always be this way. It’s so good to notice, feel, and remember this again.

photo links to photographer’s site

if you feel confused too, follow me to the beginning of this story

The report is in. Both my friend Dr. John Edwards and Dr. Ling here at NTU Hospital thought the MRI of my twisted noodle looked pretty much like the twisted noodles of most people who don’t claim brain failures. IE: Normal. So, that’s good. Dr. Ling was actually a Parkinson’s specialist and she doesn’t even currently see residuals of the Parkinsons symptoms we saw earlier. She prescribed:

1) Some medication to stimulate blood flow in the brain for 1 week
2) Drinking water like it’s Burning Man
3) Two short (10 min) exercise sessions a day
4) More of this confounded rest

So I’m on this routine for the next week and then we’ll see. On the plus side, there is a Taipei film festival coming up and that should provide me with motivation to sit still for extended periods. My brain also gets tired quickly, so that’s helping slow me down too.

And now, to be good and get some of the sleep I’m supposed to be so excited about. Sigh.

if you feel confused too, follow me to the beginning of this story

This morning I lifted my spoon to my mouth and it felt a little less like a scene from 2001: A Space Odyssey. That’s a good thing. It definitely seems like mornings are worse and evenings are better. Last night I was able to keep up a nearly Kai speed of conversation for many hours with a series of people. (Some quite interesting humans, actually, including a Thailand flood-stranded Hungarian psych professor and a professional German designer fresh from teaching a conference.) It definitely took some energy, and my brain was being pushed hard, but it was worth it to feel like a normal me on a roll. Given that success I had high hopes for this morning but, while lessened, the pattern repeated. I opened my mouth to tell Nikita how well it was going but the words took their time meandering out of the barn. The tremors were minimal, though, and I did some yoga and kung fu to see what I could manage.

Working around my fuzzy brain, my still recovering knee and my balance was an amusing trick and, of course, a fascinating puzzle. I did pretty well. I could hold tree pose and extend my leg out completely to the side without much trouble. I could throw some pretty fast punches, although my blocking movements seemed a little odd. This could also be from the fact that, because of the knee, I haven’t been able to train for a long time anyway. The hand clenching and wrist flipping tests the doctor used on me were quick and I could hold a pretty steady palm.

After a shower I’m feeling a little tremor-y again and I’m wondering if it’s the oxy zipping down to my muscles and forgetting my brain. There’s definitely some balance between getting my blood and body moving and making sure there’s enough oxy left over, but I really feel like the movement helps overall and may be why I do better in the evening.

Yesterday I dropped by the children’s Go school again and the enthusiastic teacher, still convinced I speak perfect Chinese, loaned me another book and gave me a huge printout of Go term translations. I bought a children’s book of Go problems (level 2, I’ll have you know) for about $6. As soon as I’ve worked through enough of them I’ll go hit her up for a lesson and another teaching game. I think that working on these is a good break from looking at a screen and provides a good challenge to keep my noodle wriggling.

So that’s today’s lesson to all of you, straight from the adorable vocabulary of Chinese people who learn from old textbooks. Keep using your noodles. Keep your noodles wriggling and growing. The Chinese people believe that long noodles on your birthday bring long life, and I think that from udon to linguini to pho to mian to pasta, it’s our noodles that keep us all connected.

photo links to photographer’s site